'Jerusalem' at the Apollo Theatre

A couple of weeks ago we went to see 'Jerusalem' at the Apollo Theatre in London's glamorous West End but found ourselves in small town Wiltshire instead. I missed this play on its first run at the Royal Court and at the Apollo, and missed it on Broadway, so it was a must see when it re-opened for a short run. And I'm so pleased I saw it.

It's the tale of Johnny Byron who lives in a caravan in the woods at the edge of town, with new housing developments coming ever closer. He's drunk and high throughout the play, the local source of whiz and other stimulants, gets banned from all the local pubs and is the centre of attention for the local yoof (and not so yoof) for his drugs.

For all that, his is a traditional role, the mischief-maker, the pied piper and the teller of tales and what tales he spouts! He tells his hangers on about the Byron Boys, his ancestors who are all buried in and around the woods with their eyes open and about meeting the giant who built Stone Henge (when asked how tall the giant was he replied that he couldn't tell because he was sitting down) and who gave him an earring as big as a drum to beat if he was ever in trouble. At the end of the rambling and delicious story of the giant I decided I believed him. Johnny Byron has, indeed, met a giant and is one himself (albeit of limited growth).

Mark Rylance gave a magnificent performance as our bumbling and drunken hero (I have great sympathy for his understudy if he ever needs to go on) who draws us into his little world in Little England where anything beyond the borders of Wiltshire is foreign. One of the young hangers on is heading off to Australia the next day and the big part of the journey is getting the bus to Chippenham, not the flight to Oz. Mark's main side-kick is Mackenzie Crook who plays Ginger, one of Johnny's former hangers on who hasn't managed to break away as he grows up. They make a fine and believable pair of rogues and Johnny casts him off at the end.

Johnny's way of life is coming to an end with his eviction from the land his caravan sits on and a raid by the police for his drugs activities. He's beaten up by locals who used to hang with him but grew away as the police start to arrive at the woods. A beaten and bleeding Johnny grabs the giant's drum and starts beating it, howling for his Byron Boys to rise up and for the giant to appear to help him in his hour of need. It's a harrowing scene and the play closes with the sound of giant footsteps approaching... I believe.

This is a marvellous play and production with some lovely, poetic lines (particularly form the Professor) and a gloriously messy set with chickens under the caravan and trees covering the stage. If you get the chance, go and see it while you can.